Jonathan Simkhai Pre-Fall 2022 – WWD
Last season, designer Jonathan Simkhai noted that he thrives on juxtapositions and dichotomies. For pre-fall, he explored more ideas of balancing the natural elements with sophisticated, soft styles.
“I want to have something earthy to base it on and have a natural feel to it. In LA we are so surrounded by the outdoors and nature, but [here we are] bring it to the city and bring the two worlds closer together. Take something soft – the threads – and hard – the stones – together. I love the juxtaposition, ”he noted during a visit to a showroom, referring to new ways of knitting with stones and beaded material crocheted into clothing.
The look: A mix of soft feminine silhouettes with handcrafted details.
Quote to note: “We shot this in the Cal Poly theater department building, ”he noted of the collection’s lookbook video. “I like to mix the idea of fashion with other art forms together, through crafts or different arts – theater, art, music. For example, we loved the idea of mixing linen and linen fabrics with lace inserts and stitching.
Key pieces: A variety of handcrafted knits in a mix of neutrals and transitional neutrals with touches of coral, chartreuse, lavender, copper, honey and merlot – a cropped, multi-colored crochet polo shirt; the new spatial dye separates; relaxed, body-hugging knit dresses with straps and crochet inserts interwoven with stones. A sand-washed silk charmeuse dress with off the shoulders with pintucks and gathers; pleated dresses (with touches of material) and dresses with abstract floral collage prints; a pleated lace trench coat (or a lace-encrusted blazer and a slightly utilitarian reworked shirt).
In shoes, his second collection in the category, Simkhai introduced the material embellishments of clothing in sandals, boots and mules.
To take with: Simkhai’s modern bohemian ideas continued to work well for the season.